Early herb gardens were the major source for food seasoning. The need for homegrown herbs, however, declined with the advent of modern stores. Today, many gardeners are rediscovering the joy and pleasure of producing their own herbs.

It is no surprise that ancient cultures propagated herbs. They have played an important role in man's life for countless years ~ in his politics, romance, love, religion, health and superstition. The Greeks crowned their heroes with dill and laurel wreaths. In France during the middle ages, babies were rubbed with artemisia juice to protect them from the cold. Chives, still a commonly grown herb, had economic importance for the early Dutch settlers in America. They intentionally planted it in the meadows so cows would give chive-flavoured milk for cheese.

Commonly-grown herbs fit into one or more classifications according to use ~ culinary, aromatic, tea, ornamental and medicinal. Herbs can also be classified as annuals, biennials or perennials. Common annual herbs (bloom one season then die) include: anise, basil, chervil, coriander, dill and summer savory. Biennials (live two seasons, blooming in second only) include: caraway, parsley and angelica. Finally, perennials, which are often found in even the most basic gardens include: chives, fennel, lovage, thyme, sage, lavender, mint, tarragon, rosemary (in milder climates) and winter savory.

From the botanical point of view, an herb is a seed plant that does not produce a woody stem like a tree, however, a herb will live long enough to develop seeds and flowers.

Growing Herbs
Most commonly grown herbs will grow in the northeast section of your garden. If you have room, make herbs a part of your vegetable garden. To prevent herbs from taking over a garden, punch some holes near the bottom rim of a large bucket. Sink the bucket in the ground, then plant the herb in the bucket. This should successfully confine it for several years. You may choose to grow aggressive herbs like mint in this way. Herbs make wonderful companion plants in hanging baskets, window boxes, patio planters, etc.

When selecting a site for your herb garden, make sure that the area has excellent drainage. If the garden is poorly drained, you may have to modify the soil by removing top layer of 15 to 18 inches. Place a 3-inch layer of crushed stone or drain rock in the area. Mix some compost and peat into the soil before refilling the excavated area, making sure to refill the beds higher to allow for settling.

Unlike regular garden plants and vegetables, herbs require very little care. Do not use fertilizer as highly fertile soil tends to produce plants with excessive foliage and little flavour. As a bonus, herbs generally don't suffer from disease or insect attack. In hot, dry weather, spider mites may be found in low-growing plants and aphids may attack anise, caraway, dill and fennel. There are many natural and safe ways to deal with these predators.

Nearly all herbs can be grown from seed. Sow seeds in shallow boxes in late winter. Transplant seedlings outdoors in spring. A light, well-drained soil is best for starting seedlings indoors, making sure not to sow the seeds too deeply. Generally, the smaller the seed, the shallower it should be sown. Sow anise, dill, coriander and fennel directly in the garden as they do not transplant well.

Most biennials should be sown directly into the garden in late spring, making sure that the soil is light and slightly wet. Sow seeds in shallow rows, firming a fine layer of soil over the seeds. Keep moist during the germination, making sure to use a fine spray to prevent the seeds being washed away.

Cutting and division are also used in herb propagation, especially if seeds are slow to germinate. Mint, lovage, lemon balm, tarragon, chives and savory, for example, are easily propagated by division. Lavender, rosemary and scented geraniums are easily propagated by cutting.

Harvesting
Fresh leaves may be harvested as soon as the plant has enough foliage to maintain growth. It is preferable to pick herbs after the dew has disappeared, but before the sun becomes too hot. If drying herbs for winter, harvest before the flowers develop. Always rinse herbs in cold water and drain well before drying.

Winter Protection
In warmer Canadian climates (i.e. southern British Columbia and coastal regions) herbs need little winter protection. Perennial and biennial herbs in other parts of Canada should be have their shallow roots protected from spring thaw by mulching with straw, oak leaves or evergreen boughs. Apply the mulch after the ground has frozen in early winter and do not remove until plants show signs of growth in early spring.

Growing Herbs Indoors
Herbs can be grown in a sunny window year-round, with little more effort than growing outdoors. Indoor plants need essentially the same conditions ~ lots of sunlight and well-drained soil that is not too rich. Select a south or west facing window. In winter, grow lights are beneficial. Add one teaspoon of lime per 5-inch pot to keep the soil sweet and put an inch of gravel in the bottom of the pot to ensure good drainage. When watering, don't drench herbs and avoid getting the roots soggy. Herbs can be maintained year-round indoors providing they are given a periodic light feeding and a yearly repotting for perennials. Renew annuals on a regular basis.

Creating a Wheel Herb Garden
The herbal wheel garden is in the shape of a circle and features a central focus and four or more paths that carve the garden into pie-shaped beds. The quarters are planted with perennial and annual herbs that reflect the personal selections of the gardener. Some wheel gardens contain only medicinal herbs, others encompass a wide range of tea, ornamental, culinary cosmetic and healing herbs. The central ornament can be anything that reflects the theme or spirit of the garden ~ a gazing ball, an ornate bird bath, a classic statue or even something intensely personal and symbolic to the gardener. When choosing a location for the wheel garden, keep in mind that herbs require six to eight hours of sunlight daily. Situate the wheel in an open area where taller structures or trees will be to the north.

To create the wheel shape, gather five marker stakes, some string, a hammer, a measuring tape and a compass. Drive a stake into the ground at the desired centre point. Using a compass, locate the four cardinal directions and mark each with a stake that is equally distant from the centre stake. Mark the circle by joining the four cardinal direction states with string. Once the circle is marked, prepare the bed by digging out the sod and mixing peat or compost, a small amount of bone meal and topsoil. Herbs prefer well-drained, slightly alkaline soil.

Lay twenty-four inch wide heavy landscaping cloth from each stake towards the centre to form the paths. Cover with bark mulch, gravel, or other natural materials. Use bricks, rocks, or decorative edging to define the circle and edge the paths. Select plants for each quadrant, using the guide below.

Tea
Bee balm or bergamot, chamomile, hyssop, lavender, lemon balm, lemon grass, lemon verbena, mint, yarrow.

Medicinal
Aloe vera, catnip, comfrey, calendula, echinacea, feverfew, mullein, St. John's wort, valerian.

Culinary
Basil, borage, chervil, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, lovage, marjoram, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, salad burnett, savory, sorrel, tarragon (French), thyme.

Butterfly
Bee balm (monarda), borage, calendula, echinacea, garlic chives, lavender, nasturtium, valerian, verbena, yarrow.

Fragrant
Catmint, chamomile, curry, lavender, lemon balm, lemon thyme, mints (apple, Corsican, eau de cologne, ginger), pineapple sage, sweet violet, sweet woodruff.

Repellent
Feverfew, lads love, pennyroyal, pyrethrum, rue, tansy, wormwood.

Potpourri
Anise hyssop, bergamot, clove pink, dianthus, grey santolina, lavender, lemon balm, lemon verbena, peppermint, rose (heirloom roses especially), scented geraniums.

Companion Planting with Herbs
Herbs make great companions to common garden ornamental plants, helping to repel pests and disease without the use of chemical pesticides and fungicides. The following are some excellent pairings and some pairings to avoid:

Roses
Garlic cloves, planted with your new roses, will help to keep the garden aphid free as the roots of the rose take up the sulfurous compound that garlic consists of. A surprising benefit that garlic provides is that helps to sweeten the fragrance of the rose. Catmint is perfect for under planting standard or tea roses. Containing a pheromone similar to that given off by aphids, it attracts the parasitic braconid wasp that uses the aphids body as an incubator for its eggs. Chives work much the same way as garlic, helping to keep aphids, spider mites and some diseases at bay. Lavender, although attractive and fragrant already, has excellent repellant properties. Planting a hedge around your rose garden will deter rabbits from nibbling on the soft new growth and delicate flower buds. Its fragrance will not only deter whitefly but will also attract beneficial insect predators.

Good Herb Companions
The following planting combinations are effective pairings to ward off pests and disease and may in some instances promote healthier growth. Basil - apricots, beans cabbage, tomatoes. Borage - strawberries. Chamomile - cabbage, cucumbers, mint, onions. Dill - cabbage, lettuce, onions, tomatoes, fennel. Chives - apples, carrots, grapes, parsley, tomatoes. Coriander - cabbage, carrots, chervil, dill. Garlic - apples, carrots, peaches, roses, tomatoes. Marjoram - most plants. Mint - cabbages, chamomile. Oregano - cabbage, cucumbers. Parsley - asparagus, chives, peas, roses, tomatoes. Sage - cabbage, carrots, strawberries.

Poor Herb Companions
These planting combinations can be detrimental to healthy growth and good crop yields. Basil - sage. Chives - beans, peas. Coriander - fennel. Garlic - beans, cabbage, peas, strawberries. Mint - parsley. Parsley - mint. Rosemary - potatoes. Sage - basil, cucumbers, rue, wormwood.

Herbs That Attract Beneficial Insects
Bergamot, borage, catmint, chives, lavender, lemon balm, mint, rosemary, sage, tansy, thyme.

Alluring Nettles
If snails are attracted to your favourite plants, try luring them to a distant corner of the garden by cultivating a decoy patch of stinging nettles. Scientists at the University of Santiago de Compostela in Spain found that snails in their experimental plots made straight for the nettles which they seem to find very tasty.

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